Like most gardeners, I try to support local farms when I can. When those farms make it possible for me to buy specific foods I enjoy, I want to support them even more. My most recent farm visit has been to Wright Dairy in Alexandria, Ala.
Over the past few years, I’ve slowly whittled down my food consumption (by type, not amount). In 2009, after watching Fast Food Nation, I quit eating beef cold turkey; in January 2010, I revised to not eating any meat or eggs that aren’t locally farm raised [I define "farm raised" by the animals actually living on the farm, (i.e., walking around, eating bugs and grass, and existing as they have evolved to exist), not in a feed lot, coop, or other concentrated area] or hunted by someone I know and trust will kill with one shot; in January of 2011, I stopped eating all seafood except boiled crawfish and some mollusks (mussels, scallops, oysters, clams) and quit drinking milk unless it comes from a small, local farm. There is no small, local dairy farm near me, so I quit drinking milk and severely limited my cheese and butter consumption. This has not been fun. I love milk. And butter. And cheese. Also, cornbread made with soy milk isn’t as good. It just isn’t.
That was a long diatribe to say that I finally got to visit Wright Dairy a couple of weeks ago when my husband and I went to visit a friend in Atlanta. On our way back to Mississippi, we took a short detour and stopped in this quaint little place for some goodies. I knew we wouldn’t be nearby for a while, so we stocked up. We bought 2 gallons of milk (froze one), 2 pounds of butter (cut up into 8 pieces and froze all but one), three blocks of cheese (raw milk, farmhouse cheddar, yellow cheddar), and 2 single servings of ice cream. Maybe dairy overload, but it’s got to last awhile. We ate the ice cream on the spot, and I can confidently say that it was the best ice cream I’ve ever had. Edmond had butter pecan (his favorite), and I had black walnut (my new favorite).
Wright Dairy produces milk unlike most others in a couple of ways:
- They have a small herd of cows that live like cows should–grazing, laying in the sun, not producing milk like machines, etc.
- They don’t give their cows growth hormones (rBST/rBGH) to increase yield. Not sure why this is a problem? Watch this and this. Also consider that the U.S. is one of the few developed countries that doesn’t ban rBGH. Also, Monsanto markets the drug. ‘Nough said.
- They don’t homogenize their milk, which allows it to separate, meaning the cream rises to the top. It can be scraped off for coffee or the milk can be shaken to redistribute the cream. This also means that many people who are lactose intolerant can drink their milk. Read here for an explanation.
- They don’t ultra-pasteurize their milk like large-scale organic dairies because the milk isn’t meant to sit for weeks on the shelf at Walmart or Publix. This means it doesn’t last for months but that it tastes better.
- They raise a few different types of cows to get a good balance of volume and cream content.
Let’s have an exercise. Close your eyes and imagine one of those happy-cows-come-from-California commercials. Better yet, watch one here. See all that green? Lush pastures, healthy animals, space?
Now look at this:
Where’d all that grass go? Not quite the same, is it? There are many, many reasons to avoid conventional, grocery-store dairy, even organic. I won’t get into all of them (despite my temptation), but I will point you here and here. Don’t want to look? You should. Think about what it means if you don’t want to look. Not sure what it means? It means you know something wrong is going on, but you are unwilling to acknowledge it. It’s a hard pill to swallow, I know.
Now then, back to Wright Dairy. It was amazing. There was a small herd of cows (I’d say 50 or so but didn’t count). They were surrounded by acres of green pastures on which they mostly laid down the whole time we were there. I’m not sure exactly how to measure happiness, but they looked content. They had space, they weren’t standing knee-deep in feces (which is what makes those feedlots in that above picture brown), and they weren’t eating out of grain troughs. They looked like the cows in the commercials, but they weren’t as perky and annoying. Edmond and I ate our ice cream and sat and watched them. Every now and then a farm worker would walk by and say hello, but otherwise, it was quiet and peaceful. Sounds too good to be true, I know, but trust me, it was that good.
Wright Dairy milks their cows only once a day (in comparison to up to three times per day at factory dairies), and if you are around at 4 p.m., you can watch them do it. We weren’t there at the right time, but I find comfort in knowing that they would let me watch if I wanted to. Farmers who are willing to let you watch them generally are doing the right thing. Farmers with chicken coops containing 30,000 birds lock those coops and have no-trespassing signs for a reason and it ain’t ’cause the chickens will find a way out.
The Wright Dairy store is small and sells buttermilk, whole milk, 1% milk, and chocolate milk; butter; a variety of cheeses; ice cream; and a few other odds and ends. The man and woman at the checkout counter were just as friendly as your favorite country neighbors and as helpful too. And their promise that the milk tastes better than any other is absolutely true. If you’ve ever wondered why plain milk is sometimes called “sweet milk,” visit Wright Dairy. You’ll taste why. It really is sweeter. And nothing is added to the whole milk and buttermilk. Nothing at all.
If you live at all near north Alabama, I suggest a day trip over to Wright Dairy. They are open every day except Sunday and some holidays. Check out their Web site for details. If you don’t live nearby, they won’t ship to you, but you may find a dairy farm near you at Eat Wild.
And to end with a happy sight, here are some cows from Wright Dairy.
Photos linked to their sources





